Joule Completed!...(nearly)

March 10, 2018

We've reached the day!  Joule is completed...well, as the title states, "nearly."  There is the matter of her name and hailing port - which the owners are to bring over in the morning, so she may just have her name in lights by tomorrow!  The owners are also getting a bit of work done prior to splashing Joule:  the rudder stock has got some 'slop' in it due to a bolt that secures the tiller to it not aligning well.  The bolt is pushing off to one side of the round rudder stock, and the result is a not-so-snug fit of the tiller to rudder stock connection; the owners are also getting a bottom job.

Today, however, was the close of at least this ~7-month chapter of take down, repair, and rebuild.  I got to work installing the plumbing connections for the cockpit drains and their through-hulls.  I connected a NPS coupling to a hose barb, using polysulfide to seal the connection, and then tightened the other end of the coupling onto the port side NPS through-hull (also sealing the connection with polysulfide.  I then pushed and spun the hose onto the hose barb, overcoming the hose's resistance to going on.  I placed two clamps hose clamps onto the hose and pushed them down over the hose barb, and tightened them just enough to keep the hose in place.  I set the inboard end of the hose again the lower portion of the cockpit drain to determine how much hose needed to be trimmed, and then did just that.  I applied a bit of polysulfide to the lower portion of the cockpit drain, set the other two hose clamps on the hose, and then snugged the hose into position.  For the last step, I tightened the hose clamps securely - two on the through-hull and two on the cockpit drain.  I repeated this step for the starboard side drain.

Back in the cockpit, I trimmed the tiller base plate bungs, wiped the surface clean and then applied another application of teak oil.

I headed back over to the shop to prep the locker lids and fiddles to be installed in the cabin liner.  I sanded the weathered fiddles and then cleaned with a solvent.  The fair bit of sanding and cleaning did wonders for the fiddles.  I simply re-secured them in place with their original fasteners.  For the locker lids, I just gave them a good scrubbing with a solvent to remove years of crud.  The locker lids are a plywood with laminate construction, but seemed to have held up fine over the years.  I am sure they will be hidden away under new cushions in the near future.

At this point it was clean up time...I began a bow to stern vacuum session, and tossed over anything I had stowed away on board during the refit.

I placed the sanded and oiled washboards in the companionway, and slid the hatch closed.

She's nearly ready for the water!

As a gift to the owners, I fabricated a new tiller for Joule.  Made of alternating layers of teak and ash woods, the newly made and varnished tiller looks at home on this great little sailing yacht!  I absolutely love these Typhoons, and am happy to see new life breathed into hull #1044.  Glen and Catherine, fair winds and following seas!

Total Time Today:   3.5 hrs

Tiller Base Plate Install & Trimming Remaining Bungs (almost)

March 9, 2018

Joule is almost complete; just a few tasks remain, and those will be resolved through tomorrow.  Today's items were to install the tiller base plate and trim the bungs that I could - and apply teak oil to those surfaces.  Getting to it, I set the tiller base plate in position, adjusted slightly, and then pre-drilled for the #10 self-tapping screws.  Once the four fasteners holes were pre-drilled, I removed the base plate and tapered both the underside of the plate and the cockpit sole in order to provide ample voids for the polysulfide sealant to squeeze into.

I solvent-wiped the underside of the base plate as well as the cockpit sole, and then applied a generous amount of polysulfide.  Knowing things were about to get a bit messy, I applied some protective tape to the top of the base plate.  With the polysulfide on the cockpit sole surface, I then gently set the base plate into position and secured the plate to the sole with the four fasteners.  I used a filleting tool and push as much polysulfide as I could into the small voice around the rudder stock and fiberglass tube that emerges through the cockpit sole.  I will come back later and remove the tape, cleaning up the area a bit.

After I finished the base plate install, I went ahead and removed the tape that was applied for the nonskid application...revealing a sharp line.  Next, I turned to trimming the bungs on the aft cockpit trim, the top trim on the companionway slide hatch, as well as the three bungs on the starboard coaming securing the return block to it.  I vacuumed up of the wood dust and shavings, and then cleaned the surfaces with a solvent.

Turning back to the tiller base plate, I grabbed some varnish (glue), four bungs and a hammer, and headed over to Joule once again.  I painted each bung with varnish, set it into its fastener hole, and then tapped it home.  These four bungs will be the last four to trim...tomorrow.  Teal oil will follow for the tiller base plate, as well as the aft cockpit trim, companionway slide hatch trim, and the forward edge of the starboard coaming.

Prior to knocking off for the evening, I applied teak oil to the forward edge of the starboard coaming, the top trim on the companionway slide hatch...

...and the aft cockpit trim.

In the last work session tomorrow, I will clean and re-install the various fiddles for the interior liner (v-berth area, settees, etc.).  I will install the new cockpit drain through-hull plumbing components.  I will also trim the four bungs on the tiller base plate, aft cockpit trim, companionway slide hatch trim and the forward edge of the starboard coaming board.

Total Time Today:  1.5 hrs

Installation of Jib Tracks and Coaming Cleats, Final Coat of Cockpit Nonskid-

March 8, 2018

The finish line is clearly within sight!  Excited to maintain pace for completion within the coming couple of days, I decided to tackle the toe rail jib tracks this afternoon.  In previous work on the toe rail I spaced out the fasteners for the rail as well as the jib track - making sure that the fasteners did not overlap.  As I laid out the jib track on the installed toe rail I notice that my location for the first of the jib track fasteners needed to be adjusted to aft just slightly.  With the new location set, I marked the fasteners' locations on 3" centers.  I then pre-drilled and tapped for the #10 machine screws.  

I backed the machine screws with nuts from below.  As the fasteners exited the underside of the hull-to-deck flange, I wasn't left with a lot of room to place the backing nut into position.  This lack of room required me to remove a bit of the laminate from inside, and I did so with a spiral saw.  At each of the locations where the jib track fasteners existed the flange, I ground away a bit of the inboard hull laminate....just enough to get a nut on the machine screw.  The starboard jib track was completed with those minor alterations.

On the port side, I decided against driving the machine screw completely through the deck and the hull-to-deck flange.  Instead, I up-sized the fasteners to a #12 machine screw at 1.5" in length.  I drilled and tapped for the machine screws, applied polysulfide (as I did for the starboard jib track), and then secured the track by tightening down on the machine screws.  The slightly larger head of the #12 machine screws required me to open up the tapered fastener holes in the jib track itself, to allow the stand-up block to slide back and forth free from impingement.  I finished the jib tracks by installing the block stops fore and aft, and then wiping up the polysulfide squeeze out.

Next, I turned to the coaming board cleats.  I set the port side cleat a comfortable distance aft of the winch, allowing for working room for the lines.  I drilled 1/4" holes into the coaming board, using a scrap piece of wood for backing to prevent tear out, and then tapered the inboard side of the holes to allow the machine screw head to sit flush with the coaming board.

The port coaming cleat installed, pictured below.

I repeated the process for the starboard coaming cleat.

To end the work session, I applied the final coat of nonskid for the cockpit sole.  I will remove the painting tape tomorrow...hopefully revealing a clean line :)

Items that remain:

- Install tiller plate, bung, trim bungs and oil

- Trim bungs and oil on companionway hatch, aft cockpit trim, and coaming return

Total Time today:  4 hrs

Cockpit Nonskid, Companionway Hatch Trim, and Hardware

March 7, 2018

Getting home and straight to work, I begun by sanding the area within the cockpit sole to be painted with nonskid paint.  I used 150-grit paper over the surface, and then vacuumed and solvent washed the surface to clean and prep it for painting.

Painting on the nonskid was a simple matter of rolling it on, being careful to not let the roller get too quick in the hand and splattering the fresh paint and trim elsewhere.  A second coat will go on tomorrow evening and bring the painting to a close.

I placed the newly fabricated cockpit hatches in place.

Next, I mounted the companionway hatch and its trim - both the top and bottom slide handles.

To complete the work this evening on the companionway slide hatch, I glued in the five bungs with varnish.  One of the last items to complete will be the trimming of bungs on the companionway slide hatch, the aft cockpit trim, and the starboard coaming block...followed by additional coats of teak oil.

The last two items for the evening would be the taff rail chock and the base for the flag pole.  I selected the mounting location, marked for fasteners, pre-drilled for those fasteners, tapered the top of the taff rail for each fastener hole, and then mounted the hardware with polysulfide sealant.  The bronze chock was secured with bronze fasteners and the 316 stainless base for the flag pole was secured with 316 stainless fasteners.

Total Time Today:   1 hr

Brightwork, Interior and Hatch Painting

March 5, 2018

Not able to get to Joule over the weekend due to a scheduled trip that took me to the northeast, I was eager to get back at the last of the "punch list" items.  Today was the day for the drain holes to be cut into the toe rails.  These drain holes would allow water egress.  I began by finding the low spot on the deck, and then fine-tuned my decision based upon where the toe rail fasteners were located, as well as the potential of the jib track fasteners yet to be installed.  Once I was happy with the location of the toe rail/deck drain, I applied some tape to protect the surface of the toe rail from clamps.  The clamps were used to hold a scrap piece of wood on the backside of the rail to prevent tear-out when drilling through the rail.  The width the drain hole is just shy of one inch.

I removed the tape and began to remove the material between the two holes with a chisel.

I would come back later in this session to oil the interior surfaces of the toe rail/deck drain; I also repeated these tasks for the port rail - locating the drain at the same point, just aft of the winch base.

I then turned my attention to oiling the teak.  With the drain holes cut and the bungs trimmed, it was time to reapply oil to the brightwork - especially the toe rails since I was needing to install the jib tracks in the coming days.  

I applied several coats of the oil to the brightwork.  I do have three bungs to trim on the starboard coaming block (just installed the bungs this evening), as well as the aft cockpit trim board.  These areas will get teak oil applications as the balance of the brightwork received today.

I applied another coat of interior paint, and was generally satisfied with the coverage at this point.  There may yet be another application of interior paint prior to Joule leaving the yard, but this is also a great owner project and will likely be one of their annual maintenance items.

To finish the evening's work, I sanded the hatches and reapplied the Interlux Perfection topcoat - bringing the cockpit hatches to 3 coats.  The plan is to get one more in before all is said and done.

Total Time Today:   3 hrs

Cont. Brightwork and Hardware Installation, part 3

March 2, 2018

I made it a point to tackle a couple more items ahead of a previously planned weekend trip.  I grabbed the aft cockpit trim board from the shop, some tools for installation, and headed over to Joule.  The installation was fast and simplistic - mounting the trim with #10 machine screws, backed with washers and nuts.  There was a bit of an awkward angle to overcome with the nuts and washers for the fasteners nearest the access plate, but I managed.

With the aft cockpit trim in place, I turned my attention to the port side cabin cleat.  The additional fasteners that  I order arrived in the mail today, so it was time for this cleat to be mounted.  I tapered the holes through the deck, the underside of the deck and pad, as well as the top side of the deck pad. I then cleaned the surface of the boat, applied a good amount of polysulfide, and then placed the pad and cleat into position.  three 3.5" bronze 1/4-20 machine screws, backed with washers and nuts, secured the cleat in place. 

I then set out to trim all of the bungs yet to be trimmed:  the cockpit seat trim and the vertical and horizontal companionway trim.  This was the most time consuming part of the evening's work, having to trim and then sand through a few grits of paper to blend the surfaces well.  For all the brightwork that has been bunged, I will come back with another coat of teak oil prior to Joule's departure.

I finished the work of trimming the bungs and then headed back over to the shop.  The aft cockpit trim required 1/2" bungs, and since I did not have any of those prepared, I grabbed a piece of the teak stock and my 1/2" bung cutter and got to work making 5 of them.

I removed the 5 bungs from the block of teak with a trim saw, cleaned them with solvent, and with a bit of varnish (glue) headed over to Joule for the install.  I painted a bit of varnish on the bungs and tapped them into place, one at a time.

I cleaned up for the night.

Total Time Today:   2 hrs

Cont. Brightwork and Hardware Installation, part 2

March 1, 2018

So I turned the sun porch into a paint booth, ever trying to control the elements.  I sanded the cockpit seat hatches and the companionway slide hatch with 400-grit paper.  The companionway slide hatch is essentially finished, but since I am painting the cockpit seat hatches I thought I might as well paint the slide hatch while I am at it.  I cleaned the surfaces and set the hatches up for painting; painting went off without a hitch, and with no one else home, I allowed the hatches to tack up while I worked on Joule.

I brought the coaming boards out of the shop and set them in place.  With a small bottle jack, I pressed the boards into position and seated them with 1/4" machine screws through the tapped coaming board and the tapped molded coaming.  I backed the machine screws with a washer and a nut.  Within the cabin, I secured the coaming block/return with three 2" #12 bronze wood screws.

I repeated the process for the port side coaming board.  With the coaming boards in place, I tapped off the outboard face of the coaming board where it meets the side deck, and then caulked the gap with polysulfide to seal and prevent bottoms from getting wet when Joule's owners bury the rail on tack in a stiff blow!

I then moved up to the foredeck and prepped for installation of the foredeck cleat.  I tapered the holes for the 5/16" machine screws to allow for a good amount of polysulfide to help seal the installation.  I set the cleat in place and taped around the base to capture the polysulfide squeeze out.  

With the surface prepped, I applied the polysulfide and secured the cleat with the bronze 5/16" machine screws through the tapped holes.  I backed the cleat with a plate of G-10, securing it with washers and nuts.

I moved back aft and removed the tape applied for painting the smooth surfaces, and then re-applied tape for the nonskid surface in the cockpit.  I would not get to the cockpit floor today, but at least it is prepped for sanding and then painting the nonskid.

I went into the shop and pulled out the winches.  Starting with the starboard side, I tapered the fastener hole on the side deck.  I also tapered the top and bottom surfaces of the deck pad to allow maximum polysulfide sealant.  I first set the deck pad and winch in place, and took note where the winch base met the outboard surface of the coaming board.  I removed the winch, and taped the outboard surface of the coaming board. I then returned the winch to its installation position and marked the fastener holes in order to secure the winch to the coaming board.   I clamped a scrap piece of wood on the inboard surface to prevent tear out, and then drilled out the fastener holes.   I removed the tape on the outboard surface and then tapered the fastener holes on the inboard surface of the coaming board.  With the board prepped for the installation, I applied polysulfide to all surfaces requiring it and then set the winch into position.  I secured the base of the winch first with a silicon bronze machine screw with a bolt head, and backed it with a G-10 plate, washer and nut.  Back in the cockpit, I secured the winch base to the coaming board with 1/4" bronze machine screws backed with washers and nuts.  The starboard winch is installed. 

Below, a view of the starboard winch from the cockpit.

I repeated the process for the port winch installation.

Having made great progress on the completion of Joule's restoration,  I closed the shop for the day.  Just a handful of items remain to bring her to completion...in the coming week!

Total Time Today:   6 hrs

Foredeck Vent and Deadlights Install

February 28, 2018

Continuing the pace towards the finish line, I set out this evening to complete the installation of the foredeck mushroom vent - a solar powered vent that keeps air circulating in the boat even through the nighttime hours - and the new Spartan Marine bronze deadlights - a lovely addition for any vessel!  Both items were selected by Joule's owners, and I couldn't agree more with both selections.

I began with the vents overhead mounting plate, ensuring that I placed the fasteners in an alternating pattern with that of the deck fasteners.  I predrilled for the #10 3/4" self-tapping screws, and then drove them into position.  With the mounting plate in place, I moved up to the foredeck to complete the balance of the install.

I had tapped for #8 fasteners thinking those would be used; however, I am glad a made the error with the smaller of the two sizes, because I simply predrilled for the #10 1" self-tapping screws.  There was ultimately no issue with the install, so I moved forward with it.  I applied a liberal amount of polysulfide to the underside of the deck plate, and then firmly screwed it into position.  I completed the install by screwing the cover (with the small solar panel) into place.  The instructions advise that the, due to packaging, the vent may need to be exposed to sunlight for several hours in order to build a suitable charge to then begin to operate.  Somehow I don't think Joule will be able to 'resist' inspiring the vent to life!

I also removed the nonskid tape line, thereby exposing the foredeck and side deck paint scheme - not a bad looking Typhoon!  I moved on to the install of the port side deadlight.  I cleaned the surface of the deadlight frame and the cabin side with solvent, as prep for the polysulfide.  I then applied a generous amount of the polysulfide, and secured the deadlight with 5 bronze screws.  I clipped about an 1/8" off the tip since they were in between sizes for what I was looking for relative to the thickness of the cabin sides.  All good.  A future project for Joule's owners may be to frame out the interior of the cabin side to 'finish' the deadlight from an interior perspective.

I repeated the process for the starboard deadlight.  Making good progress, and more finishing work to come.

Total Time Today:   1.25 hrs

Interior Painting

February 27, 2018

I managed to get another coat of interior paint in the cabin.  There will likely be at least one more coat for the interior.  The Pettit EZ Cabin Coat is a great mold and mildew resistant paint, but man it goes on thin!  Although it does not require a base coat primer, it might prove to accelerate the lay down of the paint on top of a primer coat.  I will certainly consider that for future applications. 

Total Time Today:   1.5 hrs