January 19, 2018
With the project coming closer to its eventual (fast-approaching) conclusion, and the owners making logistical arrangements on the near-term horizon, I took the afternoon off from office work in order to take advantage of perfect conditions to get another coat of topsides onto Joule's hull.
With 220-grit paper, I began by sanding the waterline - cutting-in. I worked my way around the hull's waterline, and then moved into the broader field of the topsides, changing paper frequently as I progressed. There were minor imperfections here and there, with high spots, and so I worked those areas appropriately.
With the sanding completed, I went straight into mixing the 2-part polyurethane, which required a 20-minute induction period. Laying out the components and the necessary supplies, I made quick work of mixing a pot, and then set it aside. After the required 20-minute induction, I thinned the paint by 20%....and as anticipated, I achieve better lay-down and flow on this second coat.
Starting at Joule's starboard counter, I moved around to the starboard bow, port bow, port counter, and finally the stern. As I went, I was careful to keep the wet edge of the just applied paint as I moved forward with the next section. Interlux Perfection suggests thinning the paint by 10%, but for my weather conditions I was pleased with increasing that percentage. The paint flow-out was significantly improved by this increase in the 2333N brushing thinner - though having a base coat of Perfection on the hull helped as well.
With work at a standstill on Joule for the moment, I moved back into the shop to continue on the brightwork. I picked up the companionway slide hatch to complete this portion of the restoration. The top-mounted trim piece was still clamped in its form - introducing and setting the curve of the hatch itself onto the trim. Ultimately, I had to place this small piece of trim in the steam box a third time until I was satisfied with the limited spring-back it underwent after removing it from the form.
The trim piece was still in a state of unfinished stock - square edges, re-sawing marks, etc.
I first flipped the trim piece upside down and ran it over the router table to impart a 1/4" round-over on the fore and aft edges. I then blended, sanding by hand, the top edges and shaped the outboard ends to a pleasing appearance.
My next task was to line up the top-mounted trim piece with the existing fastener holes and the new bottom-mounted trim. The existing fastener holes were not perfectly aligned from side to side, so this would include a bit of marking to ensure proper alignment.
I laid a strip of tape across the top, used an awl to open up the tape where the existing fastener holes were, measured half the width from center of fastener hole and towards the aft of the hatch, and marked that onto the tape. I then set the trim on top of the hatch, center it from side to side while ensuring that I achieved a good orientation to the marks I had just made, and then clamped it in place. I then flipped the hatch over, and pre-drilled with the tiniest of drill bits to simply mark for further work.
With the "tiniest of drill bits" having provided the required marks for further drilling, I move the piece over to the drill press, and using a forstner bit, drilled a 3/8" hole for the #8 fastener and for a bung to cover it.
The slide hatch trim was now in a dry-fitted state. Next, I will disassemble, oil the teak, paint the hatch, and then reassemble the trim to complete the installation (installing and trimming the bungs to be included).
Even the small updates and improvements add to the overall aesthetic.
The number of bungs to be cut was beginning to add up...
...and speaking of bungs. I spent an hour utilizing some "waste" stock to cut 3/8" bungs for use in the toe and rub rails, various companionway trim pieces, taff rail, and cockpit trim pieces.
I set myself up at the drill press, and committed! With the various pieces of teak stock "bunged", I got straight to popping them out. The method is simple enough (mind-numbing, really), and includes sliding a thin enough tool between the bung and the surrounding stock, using leverage to dislodge it, and then using an even smaller tool to pop it out. In this case, the tools I used were a small chisel and an awl.
I had company for this exercise...Bonnie Bon-Bon Von Bonster, aka shop-dog.
I bagged the bungs for future use, and closed the shop for the afternoon.
Total Time Today: 4.75 hrs