Taping-off Deck & 1st Coat Finish Paint on Deck and Cockpit

January 31, 2018

My first item to address was the foredeck vent opening on Joule.  In the previous session I cut the opening out, removed a portion of core material around the circumference, and then filled with thickened epoxy.  Now, after a quick water-wash to remove the amine blush, I began sanding with the vac running down below.   I progressed from 40-grit, to 80-grit, and then finished with 120-grit paper to get the opening to the diameter I required.

With a quick clean up of the deck and v-berth below, I moved to test-fit the vent's trim ring from below.  I kept sanding until I achieved a good fit.

I finally arrived at a snugness of fit that I was pleased with for the trim ring.  I did not push the trim ring all of the way into the opening as I snapped the photo - the shadow around the ring is the result of not pushing all the way into position.

The photo below shows the vent in the final installation position. 

With the vent opening dimensions established through sanding, and the trim ring fastener holes oriented below in such a way as to not interfere with the base-plate fasteners, I set out to mark and over-drill for those base-plate fasteners.  I wanted to ensure no water would make its way into the core material, so after marking for the base-plate fasteners, I over-drilled with a forstner bit

The orientation of the base-plate fasteners was decided based upon how the trim ring fasteners were positioned - so they would not interfere with one another.  I drilled the deck with a 3/8" forstner bit, vacuumed the sanding debris, and solvent-cleaned the inside of the drilled cavities.

Next, I painted out the drilled holes with neat epoxy to wet the core so as to not "starve" the thickened epoxy to follow.  I mixed a small amount of epoxy thickened with West System's 403 micro-fibers, and filled the holes for the vent's base-plate fasteners.  With the vent installation taken as far as I could for the day, I turned my attention to the deck and cockpit - sanding.  My intent was to sand, tape-off the boundary of the non-skid and smooth finish paint, and then apply a coat of the Interlux Perfection Mediterranean White.

I worked over the cockpit well and deck with 320-grit paper with a focus on the areas where the Interlux Perfection would be painted.  I did not snap any photos of the sanding - sanding is sanding!

With the sanding complete, I thoroughly vacuumed the surface and then wiped it down with a solvent to prepare for taping and painting.  I first went around the deck and cockpit sole, taping the boundary of the paint lines, and over-taped in areas that would show a smooth radius curve.  With the tape in place, I move to trimming the radius corners (oxymoron?), using a compass and a razor blade.

I established the radius, and then cut along the pencil line laid out by the compass.

I also taped-off the cockpit well drains in the process.

I taped-off the aft end of the deck's non-skid pattern, with the reverse radius at the base of the cabin sides.

After addressing the cockpit well drains, I moved aft to the rudder post, and completed the radius work there.

On the foredeck, I completed the taping work required there...and was set to mix a batch of paint.

I mixed a pot of Perfection, set it aside for the 20-minute induction period, and moved back to Joule for a final wipe-down.  With the induction period expired, I thinned the paint roughly 15% with the 2333N thinner, and set about painting the first coat of deck/cockpit finish paint.

I worked my way around Joule with a focus on getting a good base coat applied.

In the coming days, I will be painting second and final third coat, so any imperfections from the first coat did not weigh on my application effort.

I finished on Joule's aft end, and cleaned up for the day.

Total Time Today:  5.75 hrs

Foredeck Vent Install and Brightwork Sanding

January 28, 2018

With inclement weather on the horizon, I decided to move forward with the installation of the small foredeck vent  - a MARINCO solar-powered mushroom vent.  I opened the box and dug into the instructions to ensure no surprises mid-way through the install.  Armed with the required set of measurements, I made my way on over to Joule for begin locating the area on the foredeck for the installation.

I went below and took a couple measurements off the foredeck cleat's forward most fastener hole on the port side: 9" forward and 6" outboard.  Back up on deck, I repeated the measurements, and located the center of what would be come the 3.75" diameter hole for the vent.  I placed the actual vent on deck, in the area that I marked for center.  I tilted my head to the left and back to the right, in deep cogitation, deciding on the best location for the vent.  In the end, I moved the vent 1" further to outboard and marked the location on the foredeck.  To protect the surrounding deck surface whilst removing the 3.75" disc of top skin/core/bottom skin/overhead liner, I taped off the area generously. 

With compass in hand, I halved the 3.75" dimension, giving me 1 and 7/8 inches.

I marked this 3.75" circle onto the tape, and prepared for the removal of this portion of the foredeck.  Prior to the cutting, I wen back below and secure a sheet of plastic across the area to be cut.  This protective plastic sheeting was to capture the flurry of fiberglass dust surely to be created by the efforts to come.

Using a spiral saw, I slowly made my way around the marked diameter.

After removing the 'disc' of material from the foredeck, it was was easy to see the top skin, core, bottom skin, and the fiberglass liner....mmmmm, tasty moonpie!  I vacuumed the debris from surface of the foredeck, the inside cavity, and then carefully removed the plastic sheeting below.  I finished the clean up by vacuuming the v-berth area.

As good as the seal may be that shipped with the MARINCO vent, and even with a suitable amount of polysulfide applied with the installation, water just works in mysterious ways.  So to guard against that clean, dry, and firm foredeck core from rot caused by water ingress, my next task was to ream out a portion of the core surrounding the opening and fill it with thickened epoxy.  I accomplished this by using an old allen wrench fit into the chuck of a cordless drill.  I had an assistant below deck hold the vacuum firmly up against the underside of the opening.  To the vacuum, I attached a large funnel to capture all shavings that were sure to fall from the process of reaming the core.

With enough core material removed, I thoroughly vacuumed the opening, and then applied a rag and solvent to clean up the small bits remaining, as well as any residue that might interfere with the epoxy bonding.  Next step was to tape off the underside of the opening.  I applied a firm 'backing plate' to the overhead as well; the backing plate was to ensure that I didn't get any unwanted squeeze out dripping onto the v-berth.  I again wiped the inside of the opening to remove and last bits that were loose - some fell and stuck to the taped surface below.  With things cleaned and prepped for epoxy work, I went ahead and mixed an ounce of 'neat' epoxy (not thickened), and thoroughly wet out the surfaces of the remaining core and exposed fiberglass.

Back in the shop, I mixed a small batch of thickened epoxy - 406 colloidal silica and 407 microlight - and pushed / spread into the void.  I worked my way around the diameter of the hole, ensuring an adequate amount of thickened epoxy was spread into the opening.  Finishing the opening will involve the perfunctory water-wash to remove the amine blush, and then a thorough sanding to a smooth inside surface...and tape removal. 

I finished out the work session with more time in the shop, bringing the brightwork to a sanded surface that would be ready to receive the teak oil.  Again, with looming rain in the forecast and the teak oil requiring UV to 'catalyze the oil, I decided to get the various pieces of brightwork at least ready for oil.  To that end, I started with the horizontal trim of the companionway, and then the aft cockpit trim, and finally the cockpit seat trim.  I just ran out of time with a planned daddy-daughter date, but I managed to get through these pieces with 80-grit, 120-grit, and then a smoothing with 220-grit.

Total Time Today: 4.75 hrs

Painting the Topsides (4th Coat)

January 27, 2018

Today was a painting day - before the forecast of rain was to hit.  So to that end, I began early with sanding the waterline first, followed by the balance of the topsides, by hand.  I vacuumed the surface, and then wiped clean with towels dampened with solvent - changing towels often as I went. 

The next few coats of the topsides painting will be sanded in between one another with an even finer grit of paper.  Nearly all of the low spots have been addressed through the first three applications, and so through the final two to three applications, we should be achieving a very fine finish for Joule.

The weather was holding, and is still holding as I write this entry; with the windy conditions, the paint and solvent will flash off quicker as well.  I'm not too concerned for the outcome of this application (4th coat), as there are subsequent coats to come.

Total Time Today: 3.25 hrs

Dry-Fitting Cockpit Seat Trim, and First Coat Interior Paint

January 22, 2018

With arrangements made for a working day on Joule, I set out to finish the final pieces of the trim - the cockpit seat trim.  In previous work sessions I had used the original trim pieces as templates to remove the new trim pieces, in rough dimensional form, from the new teak stock.  With the new roughed-out trim pieces cut, I placed them into the steam box in order to be bent onto a form I had created that replicated the curve of the cockpit seating.

At this point, I placed the new teak trim pieces for the cockpit seating on the boat, they ran a little long and so required a bit of trimming.  I ran both the port and starboard trim over the table saw with the cross-cut jig, and removed 1/2" from the fore and aft ends of each board.

With the length dimension fine-tuned, I mounted the starboard cockpit seat trim using four small clamps.  The purpose of the seat trim is to hold seat cushions in place from starboard to port tack (burying the rails on each tack!).  I set the height along the length of the starboard seat, set the clamps firmly in place, and then measured the spacing of seven fasteners along the length of the trim board.  With the location of the fasteners identified, I then drilled very small pilot holes through both the trim and the cockpit seat itself.  

The small pilot hole allowed me to separately drill the cockpit seat and the cockpit seat trim for the tapping tool.  I used the #25 drill bit for the #10-24 fasteners, and drilled the seven holes on the cockpit seat as well as the cockpit seat trim.  The picture below shows the tapping of the first fastener hole on the starboard cockpit seat.  I repeated this process for the balance of the 6 holes on the cockpit seat, and then moved onto the starboard cockpit seat trim board...tapping those.  Finally, I drilled and tapped the same way for the port side of Joule: first the cockpit seat, and then the cockpit seat trim.  With he Cockpit seat trim dry-fitted, I turned to other pressing items: painting.

In the coming days, I will begin to oil all of Joule's trim pieces: toe rails, rub rails, port and starboard horizontal companionway trim, port and starboard vertical companionway trim, companionway slide hatch trim (top and bottom pieces), port and starboard coaming boards, aft cockpit trim, port and starboard cockpit seat trim, the taff rail, and the various deck pads for hardware installations.  For now, I started application of the first coat of interior paint: Pettit EZ CabinCoat.

The paint application does not require a special primer or sanding for mechanical bonding, so this will be a great on-going maintenance paint for Joule's owners.  The prep for the application of the paint simple requires a warm water-ammonia solution scrub to free the surface of any waxes or other contaminants that would foul good adhesion.  Old habits die hard, and so in a previous work session I sanded the surface of the molded fiberglass interior (v-berth, overhead, cabin sole, and quarter berths) with 80-grit paper by hand and with the RO sander.  With the amount of work thus far, and Joule's interior open to the environs, I went ahead and roughed the surface us with a couple 80-grit discs (hand-sanding) to be safe.  

After the sanding, I thoroughly vacuumed the surfaces of the interior, followed by a good wipe with a solvent-laden rag...rags.  The time had come to paint, and it could not have been simpler: open paint can, mix paint, pour into roller tray, apply.  No thinning is required with the Pettit EZ Cabin Coat, and if you must thin, it calls for thinning it no more than 10% by volume....wait for it...with WATER!

Okay, so over the next couple hours I applied paint to the interior - working some areas repeatedly.  There will be, likely, two additional coats going onto the interior surfaces.

Total Time Today: 5.5 hrs

Third Coat of Topsides Paint

January 21, 2018

With absolutely stellar weather, I was eager to get out there and begin the hull prep for the third coat of topsides paint.  I changed my approach in sanding with now having two coats on Joule, choosing to take off the gloss and knock down the high spots with 320-grit paper.  The topsides are laying on increasingly better with each application  After sanding the second coat down to create a good mechanical bonding surface, I notice the high spots are becoming less obvious as well.  As with the other prep work for the topsides paint, I first worked my way around Joule with a focus on the water line.  All of the sanding work for the finish paint is done by hand, with the waterline requiring nothing less - slower, but necessary.  The picture below shows the glossy second coat and the opacity of the recently sanded surface of the second coat.

With the sanding work out of the way, I mixed a pot of Rochelle Red and set it aside for the 20-minute induction period.  During this time, I vacuumed the hull of the sanding residue and then wiped it down with a solvent.

With the induction period expired, I thinned the pot by ~20% and got to painting.  Shown below, coat number three.  The next work session will involve removing the brightwork and starting the oil application, as well as deck/cockpit painting.

Total Time Today: 3.5 hrs

Fitting Brightwork, Priming Last of the Repairs, and Sanding Washboards

January 20, 2018

I was wanting to get to another coat of paint on the topsides today, but I also needed to finish out the brightwork and that meant dry-fitting the various components onto Joule.  So, the day revolved around the brightwork.  

I started with the coaming boards.  Using the small bottle jack and bracing system, I set the boards in place.  In previous work I had marked and drilled for the fasteners, and this was my starting point for the day.  I drilled for the 1/4"-20 machine screws, and then tapped the holes for the machine screws.

For the coaming board installation, I selected 1/4"-20 machine screws with oval heads, a finisher washer, and backed with a flat washer and a nut.  I installed nine fasteners per coaming board.

Having the coaming boards in place would allow me to fit the aft cockpit trim, and it would also allow me to be one step closer to painting the cockpit and decks.

There are a few more items to do yet on the coaming boards before I call them complete: trim the tips of the coaming return blocks, create crescents on the aft ends for deck drainage, and finally, oil the boards.

With the coaming boards in place, I turned my attention to the companionway trim - both the vertical and the horizontal trim pieces.  I brought the slide hatch over to Joule to help in aligning the horizontal trim pieces.  I began with aligning the starboard slide hatch trim (pictured below).  I already had these 4 pieces of trim marked for fasteners and bored for bungs with a forstner bit, so I lined up the first of the trim pieces and pre-drilled for the #10 wood screws (self-tappers).  With that first screw in place on the starboard side, I aligned the balance of the trim piece fore-and-aft.  Once i was happy with the alignment, I pre-drilled for the forward most screw, and then set that one in place.  I then repeated the pre-drilling and placement of the remaining three screws.  With the starboard side complete, I moved over and installed the port piece in the same manner.

With the horizontal trim in place, and the slide hatch functioning as it should, I moved on to installing the vertical trim pieces.  Beginning with the port side, I aligned the top of the vertical piece to the bottom of the horizontal piece.  I fiddle around a bit with the positioning, and once I was happy, I pre-drilled for the #10 wood screws (again, sell-tappers).  I brought the washboards out to assist me with aligning the vertical pieces, and with the previous explained process, I managed to get the starboard side in place.

The trim for the slide hatch was now complete.  I will clean up the adjoining pieces with some sanding work to fine-tune the fit, and then oil the trim pieces prior to final installation.  Washboards looking good ;-)

My next piece to fit would the aft cockpit trim.  The coaming boards provided the dimension required for this piece of trim.  I hand-worked the ends to ensure a snug fit.  With the trim in place, I measured for the fasteners, and pre-drilled through the trim and aft bulkhead to mark the location.  In this instance I chose to recess #10 machine screws, backed with washers and nuts, and bunged for a clean appearance while in the cockpit.  With the marks made for the eventual fasteners, I took the board into the shop and drilled for 1/2" bungs.

With the trim piece prepared for installation, I then tapped for the #10 machine screws.

The installation took place earlier in the day, but in the super-human focus I was generating, I forgot to capture the just-completed-installation.  The photo below shows the aft cockpit trim in place.  Again, I will need to oil the teak prior to final installation and bunging of the fastener holes.

I switched gears once the brightwork was completed (in fact, there is more brightwork: the cockpit seat trim...brother!), so I moved on to the hardware prep.  I chose to work the aft deck today, working through the mainsheet cleat, mainsheet block, motor mount, and aft cleat.  I started by tapping for the three #8 machine screws for the mainsheet cam cleat.

In previous work I over-drilled the new core installation and filled with thickened epoxy - this serves to isolate the aft deck core from any future water ingress.  I aligned the base pad (a plastic pad, not the wooden pad shown below) with the areas that I had filled with epoxy and pre-drilled for the tap.  With the holes drilled, I then tapped them for the #8 screws.  The mainsheet cam cleat will be installed onto the wooden pad, and backed with a piece go G-10 underneath the deck.

I repeated the exercise for the mainsheet double block.  For this hardware item, I chose to install with #10 machine screws; again, mounted onto a wooden pad and backed with G-10 from the underside of the deck.

The motor mount was next.  The Cape Dory Typhoons came with a motor mount that would hinge onto this mount and lay aft over the taff rail.  With the height of this mount and the height of the taff rail being similar, I chose not to install this hardware item onto a wooden pad; rather, it would rest directly on the deck and bedded with a polysulfide (as will all hardware items).  I pre-drilled for the 1/4"-20 bronze machine screws, and then tapped (or threaded) the holes.

The final piece of hardware prep for the day was the aft deck cleat.  This cleat would be elevated somewhat by the small wooden pad, set with 1/4"-20 bronze machine screws, and backed with G-10.

The last bit of work for the evening, and it was dark by now, was to get primer on the last bit of repair work done on Joule - coring the cabin sole, coring the cockpit sole, and the work done on the aft deck to keep water from coming into contact with the newly installed core in that area.  I mixed a small pot of Interlux Primekote, waited for the 20-minute induction period to elapse, and then began on the cabin sole - (two coats applied).

I moved onto the cockpit sole (two coats applied)...

...and finally, the aft deck work - the areas for the fasteners in which I over-drilled and filled with epoxy to create a barrier to preserve the core material- (two coats applied).

I had removed the washboards earlier, and while working with them today kept taking an evil eye from them....they just looked ridden hard and put away wet!  I was out of teak stock, but the boards appeared to be in solid condition, and just needed to be cleaned up a bit.  

Through 80 and 120-grit discs, and some hand-sanding, I brought the boards back to looking pretty, pretty good...not great, but good - they will serve their purpose.

Total Time Today: 7.5 hrs