Cont. Foredeck Work, Cabin Sole, and Second Coat of Primer

November 26, 2017

After a week of weddings - INCLUDING MY OWN! - I got back to work on Joule with an ambitious    to-do list for the day.  I started by water-washing the previous session's epoxy work, specifically: the foredeck recore, the cabin sole, and a couple miscellany.

After the water-washing was completed, I donned the sanding gear (RO sander with 40 and 80-grit paper), and got to work on taking the foredeck recore down so that it was no longer standing proud of  the surrounding deck surfaces.

Through the sanding, I periodically checked the level of the patch to the adjacent deck.  I ended this sanding work with some additional fairing to come.

After vacuuming and solvent-washing the surface of the recently sanded foredeck recore work,  I applied neat epoxy with a foam brush to create a good bonding surface with the thickened epoxy yet to come.  I mixed up a batch of thickened epoxy and applied it to the surfaces, and did so that the surfaces stood proud of the surrounding deck.  In my next opportunity to work on the foredeck, I will sand the faired surfaces down to blend in with the balance.

With the remaining cup of thickened epoxy, I addressed a couple spots on the starboard interior liner, as well as old fastener holes (also on the interior liner) that required filling.

My next order of business would be the cabin sole.  I had just sanded the previous fairing work, vacuumed it, and wiped it down with a solvent.  The forward portion of the cabin sole was not recored, since I had cut out the top skin of the sole to a point where in which I revealed structurally sound core.  However, the forward portion of the cabin sole did have a few not insignificant cracks in its top skin, so I wanted to 'beef' this area up a bit with another layer of 1708 biaxial.  I also decided to apply a layer of glass that extended out to the guide slots in the liner that accepts the vertical partition separating what is typically a portable head.  I will come back to fill the weave and blend the layup in with the surrounding surfaces.

With the water-washing, sanding, fairing, and glass work out of the way, I turned my attention to Joule's hull.  I hand-sanded the hull with 180-grit sheet sandpaper, working my way from the stern and counter to the bow and back.  The goal of sanding here was to knock down the prior primer application and create a surface for a good mechanical bond for second coat of this two-part paint.  I mixed the Interlux Primekote in a 3:1 ratio, set it aside for its 15-minute induction period, and readied the hull surface by vacuuming it and wiping it down with solvent. 

After the 15-minute induction period past, I thinned the primer paint by 20-25% and got to work painting the hull.

I started with the poop deck, and from here went to the stern.

From the stern, I worked my way along the aft portion of the starboard topsides, to the bow, and back to the aft portion of the port topsides.

I have to say, Joule is looking much better that her previous paint scheme!

As I finished the topsides, I moved over to the prepped companionway hatch.

I ended up applying two coats of the primer before calling it a day.

Total Time Today: 6.5 hrs.

Cont. Foredeck Recore

November 15, 2017

Picking up where I left off on the recoring work on the foredeck, I solvent-wiped the G10 core material, wet out the surfaces of the bottom skin and surrounding balsa core with neat epoxy, and then mixed another batch of thickened epoxy.  I pushed the thickened epoxy around to the opening in the deck to cover the bottom skin liberally, as well as the sides of the balsa core, and then placed the G10 core material firmly into the bed of epoxy.

As the epoxy squeezed up around the sides of the G10 material, I then used a squeegee to smooth of the surface - it actually took another ounce of thickened epoxy to achieve this, but the top of the new core material was in plane with the tapered edge of the deck.

I then wet out the cloth that would form the new top skin.  I placed the large piece covering the entire surface of the new coring as well as the tapered edges, and then one piece each to port and starboard to help form the raised nonskid surface.  I initially thought it would require two thinner strips to port and starboard to build the raised nonskid deck.  After placing an additional strip on the starboard side, I could tell that the surface was now proud of the deck, and using fairing compound would be significantly easier than sanding off a layer of glass.

I covered the area in plastic sheeting and weighted it for the curing process.

Shop dog helped me close for the evening.

Total Time Today: .75 hrs

Recor-ing the Foredeck

November 14, 2017

Arriving home from work, I changed and went straight to work on Joule's foredeck in an attempt to get things laid up today.  Alas, it wasn't to be, but I did make good progress.

I took some measurements of the G10 material that I had in the shop, and used that to more or less determine a rough dimension for the removal of the top skin.  In the photo below, the larger hole in the deck served as an inspection point for the condition of the core - it was in need of replacing.  

I transferred the measurements of the G10 (to serve as the new core material) to the deck, knowing that I could always cut a larger opening if the first cut did not get past bad core material.  

After making the outline cut, I proceeded to make a few additional cuts in the field to aide in removal of the top skin.  I was able to achieve good, solid core just outside a ~1" diameter from the original fastener holes, so I called it good.  I then removed the remaining bits and pieces of glass and balsa core with the oscillating tool, followed by a good sanding to remove the last of the finer material remaining.  

I then used the 4" angle grinder to taper the edges out to accept the new fiberglass top skin.  Before moving on, I thoroughly vacuumed the surfaces and then wiped them down with solvent to prep for new work.

Before moving on, I took a measure from the stem fitting to the original fastener holes for future reference - not intending to attempt to drill and tap new fastener holes in the same location, but so that I can slightly alter the new installation to avoid these original holes.

I brought the G10 slabs out for a test fit, and was a bit disappointed that it wasn't quite a perfect fit, but well enough.  You know what they say, "perfect is the enemy of good."

At this point, I used plastic sheeting to create patterns for the new top skin installation.  In testing the G10 fit, I determined that a bed of thickened epoxy would be applied to the bottom skin, I would then place the G10 core firmly in the bed of thickened epoxy - which will bring the top of the G10 in plane with the original top skin surrounding it.  I will lay one layer of 1708 across the entire surface, and then come back with one to two narrower strips of cloth to starboard and port of the center-line to help create the raised nonskid area.  Some fairing will no doubt be called for, but this plan should get me well on my way. 

Since I was fast losing sunlight, knowing that I could not comfortably continue, I decided to secure the large hole in the foredeck with plastic sheeting. 

Back in the shop, I did get to roughing up the surface the G10 core material, creating a surface for good mechanical bonding, and also cut out the patterns for the 1708 biaxial cloth that is to become the new top skin.

Total Time Today: 1.75 hrs

Cont. Cabin Sole (Sand & Fair), Sanding Hatches, and Miscellaneous

November 12, 2017

With a needed errand completed in the morning, and after a Belgian waffle with warm maple syrup and copious amounts of butter,  I final rolled myself out to Joule to pick up where I had left of Saturday. I got started with a good water-washing on the areas that I had applied a skim coat of 407 low-density to.  I did this to cover the 410 microlight that I had applied prior and that I had sanding fair.  The reason for the 407 application was to prep the substrate for the eventual darker coat of Interlux Perfection Rochelle Red...soon to be applied.  I decided to skip sanding the topsides and went onto Joule to water-wash the cabin sole.

In the prior day's session, I had applied the final layer of 1708 biaxial and then applied a skim coat of thickened epoxy to fill in the weave and taper the radius from sole to vertical surfaces of the molded interior.  Now, with this area cleaned of the amine blush, I dried the surfaces and prepared the sanding gear - the RO with 80-grit sheets.  In the picture below, I have completed the sanding, with the exception of the corners.  For the corners and tighter spots, I used the Bosch oscillating tool's hook'n'loop sanding pad.  The cabin sole is now extremely sturdy to walk on!

After I had thoroughly vacuumed the surfaces, I went over them with a rag that I had doused with solvent to take up any remaining sanding residue.  With the cabin sole surfaces now able to offer a good mechanical bond, and cleaned of contaminates, I mixed up a small batch of thickened epoxy to skim areas that were showing cloth weave and also a few low spots.  Overall, the cabin sole is just about ready for primer. 

I also took some time today to sand a couple larger areas, both port and starboard, that had been worked by the previous owner.  There is quite a bit of flex in the molded interior, and can most likely be attributed to the damage sustained on the exterior of the hull.  The gobs of glue-like substance used to bond the molded interior to the interior of the hull probably failed at some point - allowing the molded interior to flex.  

This application of thickened epoxy will help clean up work that could have been better.  We're not going for perfect here, just to fill low spots and produce a painted surface that is more or less fair.

Climbing out of Joule, I went back to the shop to work the hatches, getting them closer to primer paint.  I started off by water-washing the surface of the companionway hatch.  For the sanding work, I used the RO sander and a 120-grit disc to knock down the 410 microlight that I had applied to both the top and underside surfaces.  With that complete, the companionway hatch was nearly ready for primer; however, the exterior surface required a skim coat to fill couple low spots, so I mixed an ounce of epoxy, thickened it and played it on with a plastic squeegee.  

I set the companionway hatch in a  corner of the shop to cure, and then brought out the cockpit locker hatches.  I had water-washed them in a previous work session, so they were ready for sanding work.  In previous work on the cockpit locker hatches, I applied a coat of epoxy as a sealer coat - applied with a foam brush.  At this point, sanding the hatches was essentially getting them ready for their first coat of primer.

I hand-sanded the hatches, both top and undersides, using 180-grit sheet sandpaper.  

The pictures above and below show one hatch down and one to go!

With both hatches sanded, vacuumed and wiped down with solvent, I went back and boarded Joule for a couple miscellaneous items.  First, I used a tapered bit and drilled out a couple dozen small fastener holes on the overhead and molded interior surfaces.  I had been neglecting these (not work as efficiently as I could), but I took the few minutes needed to complete this task.  The more significant item that I returned for was inspection of the old fastener holes, and more precisely the deck core surrounding them, to see condition and if any further work was required here.  Being a significant deck fitting (the only cleat forward on Joule), I wanted to ensure that the core was sound and strong for this cleat.

I used a 5/8" forstner bit to drill out one of the fastener holes, through the topspin and the core but keeping the bottom skin in tact.  

Sure enough, the core around the foredeck cleat installation was black and crumbly.  I will make this work a quick recore effort in the coming week.  I have a piece of G10 that has been hanging around the shop for quite some time, and using it as the core will beef this area up dramatically.  Using the G10 will also naturally isolate the surrounding remaining good core from any future water ingress.

Total Time Today: 4.75 hrs

Cont. Cabin Sole (Final Layer of Glass), Fairing Topsides and Sanding Cockpit

November 11, 2017

After a much needed mowing of the lawn, I got straight to Joule with intentions of finishing up the cabin sole recore work, among some other miscellaneous items.

The first things to do was to water-wash the spot-filled areas on the topsides and the previous fairing application on the cabin sole.  I scrubbed the surfaces down with water and a scouring pad, and then dried them off.  Using a combination of hand and the RO sander with a 120-grit pad, I took the epoxy down to a fair surface with the surrounding topsides surfaces.

...both port and starboard sides.

While I had the sanding gear out, I went ahead and cleaned up the surfaces of the newly cut portlight openings.  Of course, I also scrubbed the previous fill work to remove the amine blush.

Sanding the portlight openings were mostly done by hand, for obvious reasons, and generally cleaned up on the cabin exterior and interior surfaces with the RO sander.  Later in the evening, I solvent cleaned these surfaces and brushed a layer of neat epoxy to further seal the epoxy fill work. 

With the portlights and hull sides addressed, I went to work on the cabin sole.  The previous fill work progressed the recore along nicely, but since I wanted to layup one more layer of 1708 biaxial to tie in the entire sole surfaces, I did not obsess over the fairness of the surface.  As it turns out, I did not have too many low spots to rework with fairing filler.  I sanded the surface down with the RO sander and 80-grit pads.

With the surface of the cabin sole sanded, I vacuumed and wiped it down with a solvent exceedingly well.  I then prepped the surface for that final layer of glass by filling the spot areas that required it as well as the forward section of the sole that did not require recording work.

I had taken measurements prior to spot-filling, and so then now took those measurements to the shop to cut that final layer of 1708 biaxial.  My approach was to cut a slightly larger piece of cloth to fit the cabin sole, bend the edges up the sides of the molded seating, and just wet out the sole and radius of the turn from sole to sides of the molded seating.  The sides fit nicely within the radius, the forward end was slightly longer than required, and then I purposely went longer on the aft end in order to tie the sole into the 'damn' molded into the cabin sole.

With the glass fully wet out at this point, I used a fin roller to ensure good adhesion and no air bubbles remained within the laminate.

My final item for the core today was to allow things to tack up a bit, and then fill in the weave with some thickened epoxy.  Filling in the weave at this point is much easier than allowing the glass to set up, water-wash, sand, and then fill it in.  With filling the weave in now, I reduce a few steps and create a chemical rather than mechanical bond for the thickened epoxy.

Total Time Today: 4.25 hrs

Cont. Cabin Sole (Fairing) and Topsides Spot Fairing

November 5, 2017

I managed to get a bit of time on Joule today, and went straight back into the cabin to check the lamination work I had done last night.  The new cabin sole is sturdy and strong.  The next phase will be to fill in the weave of the 1708 biaxial cloth and generally fair the surface to a satisfactory result.  I say "satisfactory" because I intend to lay a final layer of 1708 over this faired surface to tie into the forward portion of the cabin sole and also to wrap this final layer over the raised portion aft of the bilge access.   

To start the day, I began by water-washing the surface to remove amine blush.  After drying the surface, I sanded the recent lamination with the RO sander and 80-grit discs.

After the sanding was completed, I vacuumed the surface well and followed that with a wipe down with a solvent.  The surface was prepped for fairing compound.

Being a high-traffic area, I used my typical recipe of 406 silica and 407 low-density fillers to thicken the epoxy in order to spread it in a controlled manner.  I used a 6" drywall knife to apply the thickened epoxy and then hit the tighter radius areas with a small plastic squeegee.  I thought about applying the final layer of glass for a hot minute, but ultimately decided to pump the brakes and sand this application of thickened epoxy prior to laying up the final layer of glass.  Waiting would also allow me to take an accurate template for the layer of glass.

As mentioned in my previous post, I need to come back to the topsides to address a few areas that required some sanding and spot fairing.  The areas requiring further attention are all related to repairs of a prior 'incident'.  Since they are on both port and starboard, at the beam's widest, I would wager dock finger piers or pilings were the culprit.  Then again, Joule may be the victim of a Friday night beer can race gone horribly wrong.  Regardless, I needed to take the questionable material down to solid substrate and then spot fair.  

I used the fine dexterity of finger work as well as the RO sander, with 80-grit paper, to remove the questionable material.  I then removed the sanding debris with solvent and mixed up some thickened epoxy.  The fairing compound I went with this time was West System 410 Microlight - an easily sanded material for fine application.  I will likely follow this up with thin layer of 407 since the 410 likes lighter paint schemes.

The last of the day's to-dos was to sand and fill the companionway hatch.  I worked both the top and underside of the hatch with the RO sander, vacuumed and cleaned the surface with a solvent, and then applied fairing compound comprised of the 410 Microlight.  Finishing the day's work and spending a few minutes organizing the shop, I brought down a couple of the teak boards to begin prepping for fabricating the new brightwork...just around the corner!

Total Time Today: 1.75 hrs