This blog will document the restoration of Cape Dory Typhoon (Weekender) Hull #1044. The Cape Dory Typhoon is a great sailing small-scale 'yacht', and offers a very friendly experience for her captain and crew. The scope of this restoration project will be painting the interior, deck and topsides, as well as fabricating new teak brightwork.

Saturday, December 9, 2017

Full Primer Coat (Deck, Cockpit, Topsides), and Port Companionway Trim Board

December 9, 2017


Well winter seems to be finally settling upon us here in Florida - hitting low-fifty degree weather as the high today, and just on positive side of allowing the Interlux Primekote to be applied. The owners of Joule are anxious to splash their classic Carl Alberg design, Cape Dory Typhoon, Joule.  Sharing in their eagerness to see her completed, I was striving hard to apply the first coat of primer to the deck and cockpit, and the last coat of primer to the topsides.  I'm happy to say that the outdoor thermometer hanging on the exterior wood shop wall measure a solid 53/54 degrees.  Paint on!

I spent a good deal of time sanding the entire surface area of the deck, cockpit and topsides to prep for the primer.  The topsides were in need of sanding after the previous coat, and the deck and cockpit were in need of a 'freshening up' after the initial sanding to remove the previous paint scheme.



It was satisfying to see the first coat of primer going on the cockpit surfaces, but alas the dreaded pinholes from previous fairing work revealed themselves.  It's almost a given on the first coat of primer to see those imperfections surface, but it's also a benefit in that those areas can be addressed easily in the early stages of paint application.



In my excited state, I made an error in the order of events.  I mixed the first batch of primer, and set it aside for its required induction period.  My thought was to finish solvent-washing the surfaces during the induction period (15 minutes).  With the paint set aside for its 15-minute 'time-out', I then remembered that in addition to wiping the surfaces down with solvent, I also needed to tape off the deck hardware that would not be removed during the paint process: stem fitting, bow pulpit, and chainplates.  



I decide to get as close to the deck hardware as possible, and would simply come back during the next primer coat application with having taped these items beforehand. 



Like the cockpit, I also notice a few areas that required a bit of the fine filler material - 410 Microlight.



Joule was looking so much better with that primer coat - jewel-like!



With the primer coat on, I turned my attention back to the brightwork, which took me inside the wood shop.  It was nice to be inside the shop, and out of a biting wind - biting for FL standards.  I laid out the original port companionway trim piece on the remaining section of the teak board that I had removed the new port coaming board from.  This trim piece helps secure the drop boards when closing up the boat.  With the trim piece positioned as such, I traced it and then removed it with the jigsaw.



I purposely removed the trim piece in a larger dimension that what would ultimately be installed.  I did this so I could dial in the final dimensions with alternate tools enabling me to 'sneak up' on those final dimensions: bandsaw, block plane, and hand-work.   After I had removed the oversized piece from he remaining teak stock, I moved over to the jigsaw and began to fine tune it, when...BANG!, with the subsequent sound resembling a grizzly bear being sawed into two halves!  (I didn't have onomatopoeia in my bag of tricks for that sound!)  Shutting the machine down, taking a breath, I opened the upper blade cover and could see that I had derailed!  I took note of a few peculiar things and decided to come back to repair the bandsaw at a later time.  I moved over to the small vice, and placed the trim piece in the vice while protecting the surfaces with thin strips of wood on either side. 



I removed nearly all of the surplus material, but would still need to fine tune it later.



Satisfied, for now, with the dimensions, I set up the router table to cut a 5/8" wide x 1/8" deep rabbet in the inboard, underside of the trim piece.  I did not have a bit to  cut the full 5/8" dimension with one pass, so I did it in two passes.  Before the second pass, I  move the fence up roughly an 1/8" to get the width dimension of the rabbet that I wanted.



It was getting late, and the wife was looking forward to appetizers and cocktails, so I closed the shop for the day.



Total Time Today: 7 hrs

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