January 28, 2018
With inclement weather on the horizon, I decided to move forward with the installation of the small foredeck vent - a MARINCO solar-powered mushroom vent. I opened the box and dug into the instructions to ensure no surprises mid-way through the install. Armed with the required set of measurements, I made my way on over to Joule for begin locating the area on the foredeck for the installation.
I went below and took a couple measurements off the foredeck cleat's forward most fastener hole on the port side: 9" forward and 6" outboard. Back up on deck, I repeated the measurements, and located the center of what would be come the 3.75" diameter hole for the vent. I placed the actual vent on deck, in the area that I marked for center. I tilted my head to the left and back to the right, in deep cogitation, deciding on the best location for the vent. In the end, I moved the vent 1" further to outboard and marked the location on the foredeck. To protect the surrounding deck surface whilst removing the 3.75" disc of top skin/core/bottom skin/overhead liner, I taped off the area generously.
With compass in hand, I halved the 3.75" dimension, giving me 1 and 7/8 inches.
I marked this 3.75" circle onto the tape, and prepared for the removal of this portion of the foredeck. Prior to the cutting, I wen back below and secure a sheet of plastic across the area to be cut. This protective plastic sheeting was to capture the flurry of fiberglass dust surely to be created by the efforts to come.
Using a spiral saw, I slowly made my way around the marked diameter.
After removing the 'disc' of material from the foredeck, it was was easy to see the top skin, core, bottom skin, and the fiberglass liner....mmmmm, tasty moonpie! I vacuumed the debris from surface of the foredeck, the inside cavity, and then carefully removed the plastic sheeting below. I finished the clean up by vacuuming the v-berth area.
As good as the seal may be that shipped with the MARINCO vent, and even with a suitable amount of polysulfide applied with the installation, water just works in mysterious ways. So to guard against that clean, dry, and firm foredeck core from rot caused by water ingress, my next task was to ream out a portion of the core surrounding the opening and fill it with thickened epoxy. I accomplished this by using an old allen wrench fit into the chuck of a cordless drill. I had an assistant below deck hold the vacuum firmly up against the underside of the opening. To the vacuum, I attached a large funnel to capture all shavings that were sure to fall from the process of reaming the core.
With enough core material removed, I thoroughly vacuumed the opening, and then applied a rag and solvent to clean up the small bits remaining, as well as any residue that might interfere with the epoxy bonding. Next step was to tape off the underside of the opening. I applied a firm 'backing plate' to the overhead as well; the backing plate was to ensure that I didn't get any unwanted squeeze out dripping onto the v-berth. I again wiped the inside of the opening to remove and last bits that were loose - some fell and stuck to the taped surface below. With things cleaned and prepped for epoxy work, I went ahead and mixed an ounce of 'neat' epoxy (not thickened), and thoroughly wet out the surfaces of the remaining core and exposed fiberglass.
Back in the shop, I mixed a small batch of thickened epoxy - 406 colloidal silica and 407 microlight - and pushed / spread into the void. I worked my way around the diameter of the hole, ensuring an adequate amount of thickened epoxy was spread into the opening. Finishing the opening will involve the perfunctory water-wash to remove the amine blush, and then a thorough sanding to a smooth inside surface...and tape removal.
I finished out the work session with more time in the shop, bringing the brightwork to a sanded surface that would be ready to receive the teak oil. Again, with looming rain in the forecast and the teak oil requiring UV to 'catalyze the oil, I decided to get the various pieces of brightwork at least ready for oil. To that end, I started with the horizontal trim of the companionway, and then the aft cockpit trim, and finally the cockpit seat trim. I just ran out of time with a planned daddy-daughter date, but I managed to get through these pieces with 80-grit, 120-grit, and then a smoothing with 220-grit.
Total Time Today: 4.75 hrs
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