Recor-ing the Foredeck

November 14, 2017

Arriving home from work, I changed and went straight to work on Joule's foredeck in an attempt to get things laid up today.  Alas, it wasn't to be, but I did make good progress.

I took some measurements of the G10 material that I had in the shop, and used that to more or less determine a rough dimension for the removal of the top skin.  In the photo below, the larger hole in the deck served as an inspection point for the condition of the core - it was in need of replacing.  

I transferred the measurements of the G10 (to serve as the new core material) to the deck, knowing that I could always cut a larger opening if the first cut did not get past bad core material.  

After making the outline cut, I proceeded to make a few additional cuts in the field to aide in removal of the top skin.  I was able to achieve good, solid core just outside a ~1" diameter from the original fastener holes, so I called it good.  I then removed the remaining bits and pieces of glass and balsa core with the oscillating tool, followed by a good sanding to remove the last of the finer material remaining.  

I then used the 4" angle grinder to taper the edges out to accept the new fiberglass top skin.  Before moving on, I thoroughly vacuumed the surfaces and then wiped them down with solvent to prep for new work.

Before moving on, I took a measure from the stem fitting to the original fastener holes for future reference - not intending to attempt to drill and tap new fastener holes in the same location, but so that I can slightly alter the new installation to avoid these original holes.

I brought the G10 slabs out for a test fit, and was a bit disappointed that it wasn't quite a perfect fit, but well enough.  You know what they say, "perfect is the enemy of good."

At this point, I used plastic sheeting to create patterns for the new top skin installation.  In testing the G10 fit, I determined that a bed of thickened epoxy would be applied to the bottom skin, I would then place the G10 core firmly in the bed of thickened epoxy - which will bring the top of the G10 in plane with the original top skin surrounding it.  I will lay one layer of 1708 across the entire surface, and then come back with one to two narrower strips of cloth to starboard and port of the center-line to help create the raised nonskid area.  Some fairing will no doubt be called for, but this plan should get me well on my way. 

Since I was fast losing sunlight, knowing that I could not comfortably continue, I decided to secure the large hole in the foredeck with plastic sheeting. 

Back in the shop, I did get to roughing up the surface the G10 core material, creating a surface for good mechanical bonding, and also cut out the patterns for the 1708 biaxial cloth that is to become the new top skin.

Total Time Today: 1.75 hrs